Fretboard Radiusing Kit

• Interchangeable Radius: The jig comes with the option to select two radii (2 sets of two inserts)
• Variety of radius options: 7.25, 9.5, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 26, 30
• Metric Radii Available: We also offer popular metric radii such as 400mm and 430mm
• Custom Radius Options Available: Contact us if you'd like a custom radius at no additional charge. Note: Any radius below 7.25" will likely not work with this design.
• Compatible with multiple routers: Color coded holes to easily identify the hole pattern for your router. 
  
  Compatible routers: 
  
  M18 Fuel
  Ryobi P601 One+
  Dewalt DWP611 
  Bosch PR20EVS
  Makita RT0701C
  Ridgid R2401
  
  
  
  
• Designed for a continuous radius: will not work for a compound radius
• Standard Jig Design: will work with fretboards up to 3" wide
• Extended Range Jig Design: will work with fretboards up to 5″ wide
• Material: PLA

Inside the package:

• Fretboard Radius Router Jig body
• Router base
• Your chosen radius inserts.
• 4 M4 x 10mm long screw to mount the router to the base

The router base includes a threaded insert for attaching our Truss Rod Inserts directly to the center. Precise, stable truss rod routing from the same jig.

Recommended bit: Amana 46202-K. If you need more reach, use a high-quality router extension adapter. Cheap extensions introduce runout and kill your accuracy.

We recommend a long straight bit with a 3/8″ cutting diameter such as the Whiteside 1023.

1. Setting the Height:
Choose the thickness of your preferred board material (MDF, plywood, or hardwood) such that, when placed on your working surface, there’s a 1.5-inch height from the top of the surface to the top of the fretboard.
Importance of 1.5-inch Height: The radius inserts are designed to compensate for the distance from where the router base contacts the radius insert to the top of the fretboard. This height ensures an accurate radius replication. If the setup has a height less than 1.5 inches, there’s a risk that the resulting radius on the fretboard may be rounder than intended.

2. Board Preparation:
Cut the chosen board material to a width of 4.5 inches (6.5" for extended range version). Ensure the edges are straight and the board is free from defects.
Securing the Materials:

3. Use double-sided tape to affix the board to your workbench securely.

4. Positioning the Fretboard:
Center the fretboard onto the affixed board, ensuring even spacing on all sides. Once positioned correctly, use double-sided tape to secure the fretboard in place.
Note: Carefully inspect the fretboard to verify there are no raised sections or uneven areas that might interfere with the routing process.

5. Attaching the Jig:
Attach the jig to the router base using the provided screws, ensuring a firm and secure fit.

6. Installing Radius Inserts:
Slide the desired radius inserts into the slot located in the jig’s body. Once properly positioned, tighten the set screws to secure the inserts in place.

7. Placing the Jig Body:
Position the Fretboard Radius Router Jig body onto the setup constructed in steps 1-4.

8. Positioning the Router:
Place the router base onto the jig body, ensuring it aligns correctly and sits stably. Make sure all four bearings on the router base are making contact with the radius insert for accurate routing.

9. Centering the Router:
Align the router using the center lines provided on both the router base and the radius insert.

10. Adjusting the Router Bit:
Carefully lower the router bit until it barely touches the fretboard. We advise against using a spiral bit for this process. Opt for a straight bit for the best results.

11. Starting the Routing Process:
Slide the jig in a manner that the router bit is clear of any wood. With the bit in a clear position, safely turn the router on, readying it for the routing process.

12. Routing the Fretboard:
Begin routing the fretboard. Ensure the router base bearings maintain contact with the radius insert at all times. Move with the grain of the wood. After completing each pass, slide the router base laterally to start a new path, ensuring full coverage of the fretboard surface.

Which five radii should I choose?

This kit ships with five sets of inserts and five sanding blocks, so you are choosing five radii. Here is how the common ones map to real instruments. 9.5" and 12" will cover most builds. The others are there for when you need them.

• 7.25" Vintage Fender. Pre-1983 Strat and Tele, and vintage P and J Bass. The fussiest to set up, since notes will choke on bends unless the action stays a little higher.
• 9.5" The modern Fender standard on both guitar and bass. If you only ever used one radius, this is it.
• 10" PRS and some Music Man.
• 12" Gibson. Les Paul and SG, and most modern four and five string basses.
• 14" Modern Fender Ultra and Charvel.
• 16" The shred end. Ibanez, Jackson, Schecter, and modern five and six string bass.
• 20" Very flat. Extended range guitar and flat modern bass.

A spread of 7.25", 9.5", 12", 16" and 20" covers vintage through modern through shred on both instruments without leaving a gap. If you know you will never do a vintage build, swap the 7.25" for a 10" and you get tighter coverage in the middle where most builds sit.

Metric 400mm and 430mm are also stocked, and we cut custom radii at no extra charge. Tell us the number.

Can this jig cut a compound radius?

No. It produces a single continuous radius along the full length of the board. Plenty of modern necks are compound, 10" to 16" being the common one, so it is worth being clear that this jig will not do that.

Will it handle a five string bass neck?

Depends on the jig size you pick. Standard handles fretboards up to 3" wide, which covers every guitar and every four string bass. A five string can run past 3" at the heel, and that needs the Extended Range version. Note also that this kit ships with 2.75" wide sanding blocks, which are right for guitar but narrow on a wide bass board. We make 3.5" blocks separately.